var today_obj=new Date()
var today_date=today_obj.getDate()

var tips=new Array()
//Configure the below variable to contain the "header" of the tip
var tiptitle='<strong>Tip of the day</strong><br/>'

//Configure the below array to hold the 31 possible tips of the month
tips[1]="<h4>How To Avoid Theft of Your Car or Contents</h4> Don't leave a running vehicle<br/><br/>Park in well lit or occupied areas<br/><br/>Don't put stickers on the windows that tell thieves what you have inside (Stereo stickers on the windows, etc.)<br/><br/>Use an alarm system and TURN IT ON...most stolen cars with alarms were left turned off<br/><br/>Lock your doors, and close your windows and sun roofs<br/><br/>Take your keys with you<br/><br/>Use THE CLUB or LOW-JACK<br/><br/>Install LED or flashing alarm dummy light<br/><br/>Turn tires sharply before locking steering wheel<br/><br/>Above all, don't leave your valuables in or exposed...if a professional wants your car, almost nothing will stop him."
tips[2]="<h4>Don't Rock Your Automatic Transmission When You're Stuck</h4>If you're stuck in the mud or snow (or whatever comes your way!), don't rock your car to free yourself!<br/><br/>When people get mad and rock their car back and forth to free themselves, they abuse their cars.<br/><br/>Weak or borderline problems show up with the stress caused by trying to free your car like this.<br/><br/>The next time you're stuck, dig out or call a tow truck. It will be easier on your wallet.<br/><br/><em>What to do when transmission problems show up</em><br/><br/>1)Get it inspected and serviced right away<br/><br/>2)Watch for:<br/>Abnormal shifting<br/>Weird noises or clunking<br/>New vibrations<br/><br/><em>Normal scheduled maintenance you should do:</em><br/><br/>Flush your transmission every 15,000 to 25,000 miles.<br/><br/>Have an ASE Certified tech test drive your car once or twice a year."
tips[3]="<h4>3 Main Ways of Being Ripped-Off</h4> 1) They sell you something you don't need. This is the worst kind of rip-off.  This occurs regularly in certain shops.<br/><br/>Protect yourself: Have them show you each needed item before and after repair; get written estimate; get second opinion before; verify repairs after; get old parts.<br/><br/>2) They don't know what they are doing.  Many unskilled techs are in the field due to a general shortage of technicians nationwide.  You are paying for their incompetence: wasted diagnosis time, mistakes, and parts not needed.<br/><br/>Protect yourself: Select a shop, which is accredited by AAA, ASE and ASA.  Also make sure your tech is ASE certified in the specialty he's working in.  Just because a tech is certified in one specialty, doesn't mean in all areas.  Test their recommendations with a second opinion.<br/><br/>3) They promote a price which isn't realistic. Cheap 4 wheel brake jobs: $99, but really averages $200-$300. Scheduled maintenance, tune-ups, and many other services can also be misleading.<br/><br/><em>If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is!</em><br/><br/>Have an honest shop give you a correct estimate or get ready to open your wallet much wider than you thought!"
tips[4]="<h4>How To Avoid Getting Ripped-off on Brakes</h4>Many so called cheap brake shops end up selling parts or services that you don't need.<br/><br/>Have brakes inspected and measured<ul><li>Every time you rotate and balance tires (every 6000 miles)</li><li>By ASE Certified tech</li><li>Be sure to keep record of dates and measurements</li></ul>Find a good shop, which will teach you about brakes before you need them, and who will <strong>answer your questions</strong>.<br/><br/>It is also important to flush your brake system regularly:<ul><li>ABS - annually</li><li>Non-ABS - every 2 years</li><li>When cloudy or contaminated (brake fluid absorbs water from atmosphere)</li></ul>I also recommend always installing premium parts...there only two things you always want your car to do: Go and Stop.<br/><br/>Generic isn't always the best value."
tips[5]="<h4>Computer Diagnostics: Necessary Training And Information Systems</h4>All the latest diagnostic equipment is worthless without a trained and informed diagnostician. Today's diagnosticians must keep abreast with rapidly changing technology if they want to remain in the field.<br/><br/>The average student coming out of an automotive technical college needs two years to get 'up to speed' after joining the workforce. Diagnosticians must have access to over a million pages of technical information to fix computer-related problems.<br/><br/>Transmissions, ABS brakes, HVAC (Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning), Traction Control, Fuel Delivery Systems, and Performance Systems are all computer-controlled.<br/><br/>Car manufacturers and vendors are continuously coming out with TSB's (Technical Service Bulletins), alerting the diagnostician of repair strategies and fixes for computer glitches. Information systems like  Mitchell-On-Demand, AllData, and CAS are necessary for accurate diagnosing and repair."
tips[6]="<h4>My Car Is On Fire -- What Should I Do?</h4><ul type='circle'><li>Don't panic.</li><li>Determine if it's smoke or steam.</li><li>Pull off the road immediately.</li><li>Unlock power door locks -- in case electricity quits.</li><li>Turn the ignition OFF -- to shut off fuel pump and spark plugs.</li><li>Pull the hood release -- so firefighters can put out fire.</li><li>Get everyone out of the car.</li><li>Call the fire department.</li><li>Leave the sunroof, windows and doors closed.</li><li>Don't open the hood -- starve the fire of oxygen.</li><li>Don't fight the fire yourself. Water won't put out gasoline or electrical fires. Only TYPE B and TYPE C fire extinguisher. Dry chemical is most effective, but leaves corrosive residue.</li><li>If the fire is under the car: Get out and stay away. The gas tank could explode.</li></ul>"
tips[7]="<h4>Is your car worth repairing?</h4><br/><br/>So, you've been told your car needs expensive repairs. Should you repair it or trade it?  Let's examine some issues that need to be considered...<br/><br/>The fact is, some people keep their car too long, and some trade too often.<br/><br/>A JD Power study revealed that a person would save over $450,000 during their lifetime if they kept their cars an average of 10 years.<ul type='circle'><li>Maintaining the car during the 10 year period would cost between $800 to $1200 per year.</li><li>But this investment would save nearly a half a million dollars in new car buying costs, interest, insurance, registration, taxes, and depreciation over a lifetime.</li></ul>Another study showed that consumers loose over $20 billion per year in fraudulent auto repairs.<br/><br/><strong>Solution:</strong> If you are near a great auto technician, car dealer and financial analyst, you have a pretty good chance of making good decisions about repairing your car. We would like to give you a list of how to scientifically determine what to do about this issue, but we can't.This is a very serious issue, one of the biggest financial decisions you make.<br/><br/><strong>It's all about relationships...</strong>Do you have a repair shop you trust? Do you personally know the service advisor or technician? Have you tested the relationship enough to know they will tell you when it's time to repair and when it's time to trade that old car?<br/><br/>It is not beneficial to a long-term customer relationship, or to building a good reputation to recommend repairs on a car that isn't worth it.<br/><br/>A good service advisor and technician should be there to solve your problems, not create them by being selfish and dishonest."
tips[8]="<h4>My car makes the strangest noise.  Is it dangerous?</h4>Because a car is mechanical, it can develop noises or vibrations when something is wrong.<br/><br/>What kind of noise is your car making?  Don't be afraid to make the same noise for your technician (even if it's humerous)...Clicky clicky, squeal, groaning, etc.<br/><br/>The best solution is to note when it makes the noise or vibration...<ul><li>time</li><li>temp</li><li>speed</li><li>bumps</li><li>RPMs</li><li>gear</li><li>location</li><li>while under power or coasting</li><li>braking, etc.</li></ul>Go to the most reputable shop and get the tech or service writer to go for a ride with you and demonstrate the noise or vibration to them.<br/><br/>They are blind without your help to identify the noise you're hearing. You know best what your car sounds like normally.<br/><br/>And remember: Test-drive the car after you pick it up to make sure they nailed it!"
tips[9]="<h4>Defensive Driving</h4>Unfortunately, not everyone on the road is a good driver. Even the best drivers are at risk on the road because of other agressive drivers.  Here are a few tips to keep yourself safe on the road:<ul><li>Always wear your seat belts</li><li>Slow down!</li><li>Avoid distractions (radio, cell phone, makeup, food/drink, etc.)</li><li><em>Expect</em> someone to run a red light</li><li><em>Expect</em> someone to slam their brakes in front of you</li><li>In the winter or in wet conditions, <em>expect</em> the road to be slick</li><li>Above all, be present and careful</li></ul>"
tips[10]="<h4>Concerned about gas prices?</h4><br/><br/>We're all concerned about gasoline prices right now and how to save money on gas.<br/><br/>There are a few things that everybody can do right away to help save some gas money...<br/><br/>During every change of the season, the mix of gasoline  and ethanol at the pump changes. This always causes problems, especially with your fuel filter.<ul><li>Check and replace your <strong>fuel filter</strong> and <strong>air filter</strong>.</li><li>Service your Fuel and Induction systems. They work and get clogged like a spray paint can...a perfectly working system produces a fine spray, and a clogged system dribbles or globs.  To clean these systems, I recommend going a preventative maintenance service called Motorvac, which cleans out fuel and air intake systems.  At the very least I recommend using a good fuel injection cleaning.</li><li>Get a maintenance tune-up.  If it's been a long time since you've had your spark plugs replaced, make sure your technician evaluates their status, too.</li></ul>"
tips[11]="<h4>Car Insurance</h4> When someone mentions car insurance, we all think about the liability insurance the state requires us to have on our vehicles.<br/><br/>And we all know we can add comprehensive coverage that will help pay for damage in an accident. Usually this is applied to newer cars.<br/><br/>But there are several other types of insurance for you car that you may want to consider purchasing for your car:<br/><br/><strong>Extended Warranties</strong><br/>These are like health insurance for your car...but they're not all the same.  A few are good, but many are bad.<br/><br/><strong>Gap Insurance</strong><br/>You should only consider this if you're financing 85% or more of the purchase of a new car.  This is because new cars depreciate faster than the loan is paid down<br/><br/><strong>Credit Insurance</strong><br/>This pays off the car loan in case of death, and is usually included in some very expensive life insurance plans.<br/><br/><strong>Umbrella policies</strong><br/>These include liability coverage above other policies, and are usually very good for additional liability coverage of all kinds.  These are also usually very inexpensive."
tips[12]="<h4>Shocks and Struts -- Comfort and Safety</h4> <strong>What is a shock or strut?</strong><br/>It's a hydraulic stabilizer...it keeps the tire in contact with the road and dampens or stills the car body after going over a bump.  If your car is like a big, rubber ball bouncing down the road you're probably dealing with bad shocks.<br/><br/>Shocks and struts smooth the ride and keep your tires in contact with road. CONTROL = SAFETY.<br/><br/><strong>How often do shocks go bad?</strong><br/>Every 50-60,000 miles, when hydraulic oil leaks out or when the seals rupture.<br/><br/><strong>What are the effects from bad shocks or struts?</strong><br/>The tire looses its ability to maintain maximum contact with the road, causing:<ul><li>Up to 50% loss in braking capacity  (stop in 200 feet instead of 100 feet)</li><li>Loss of stability and control in turns</li><li>Excessive tire wear  (cupping or chopping)</li><li>Vibration and noises</li><li>Excessive wear and damage to other suspension and steering parts</li><li>Structural damage to the frame, strut towers or perches</li></ul><strong>How do you know if you really need shocks or struts?</strong><br/>First and foremost, get an evaluation by an ASE Certified Tech.  They're the best judge of what your car does and does not need.  Other ways of determining are if your car:<ul><li>Has excessive bounce</li><li>Has excessive roll or sway on turns</li><li>Bottoms out over larger bumps (with a thump)</li><li>Has over 60k miles driven</li></ul>You may also want to have your shocks or struts inspected if you tow a trailer, drive a 4x4 off-road (or on harsh roads), or if you notice that your car is leaking fluids...your struts or shocks may need repair because of a loss of hydraulic action or a seal failure."
tips[13]="<h4>New Car Maintenance - Do you have to take your car back to the dealer for scheduled maintenance?</h4>Any car dealer in the world would love for you to believe that you have to take your car back to them for maintenance.  On the contrary, many independent repair shops can take care of the same repair needs that your dealer can.  More often than not, you'll actually find more talented technicians at independent shops.<br/><br/>For most new cars, scheduled maintenance should be done at 15k, 30k, 45k, 60k, and 90k miles.  Be sure to check the owners manual for your car's specific requirements.<br/><br/><em>Will this void your new car warranty?</em><br/><br/><strong>NO!</strong> The Magnuson/Moss Warranty Act <strong>prevents</strong> car manufacturers from forcing customers to get their scheduled maintenance from the dealers.<br/><br/><em>Still worried about going for repairs and maintenance outside of your dealer?</em><br/><br/>New car dealers can only service 57% of the cars they sell, so manufacturers were forced to give independent shops the technical info on their cars.<br/><br/>Besides...do you <em>really</em> want the people who beat you up when they sold you the car to work on it too?<br/><br/>You <strong>do</strong> need to have the scheduled maintenance done to keep your warranty valid, but you can <strong>choose</strong> who does it.<br/><br/>Watch those loss leader prices. In most cases you'll get a better value at an Independent shop!"
tips[14]="<h4>Basic Training for New Drivers</h4><strong>Basic Training</strong><br/>In addition to driver's education, teach them how things work and what to expect:<ul><li>Check tire pressure</li><li>Check the gas gauge</li><li>Under hood checks</li><li>Oil level</li><li>Washer fluid</li><li>Coolant bottle level</li><li>Change a flat tire</li></ul>I recommend Master Drive, a defensive and hazardous driving school for helping new drivers to learn the essentials that normal Driver's Ed doesn't teach. (<a href='http://www.masterdrive.com'>Click here to visit their website</a>)<br/><br/>You should also get a complete safety inspection on your new driver's car and go over it with them.  They will gain more:<ul><li>Respect,</li><li>appreciation and</li><li>responsibility for taking care of the car</li></ul>Finally, talk about the <em>What if's</em>...what to do when the car stops running, when they become stranded on the side of the road:<ul><li>Jumper cables</li><li>Flashlight</li><li>Cell phone with all of the emergency and contact numbers</li></ul>"
tips[15]="<h4>My battery is dead!</h4>We have ALL experienced a dead battery, whether in the cold weather or not.  Cold weather is the time most car batteries fail, but battery failure is not exclusive to the cold!<br/><br/>A battery service and test is the best insurance you can buy to keep you form being stranded next winter!<br/><br/><strong>THE PROBLEM</strong><br/>Extreme temperatures stress your car -- especially the starting system.  In the winter, when you have a cold engine, cold oil and a cold battery...well, it's a bad combination.<br/><br/>Weak batteries are caused by<ul><li>Corroded battery cables</li><li>Lose alternator belt</li><li>Leaving the lights on</li><li>Age (average battery life is 4-5 years)</li></ul><strong>THE SOLUTION</strong><br/>Test and inspect the battery every fall<ul><li>Clean battery terminals and cable ends</li><li>Clean the battery case</li><li>Watch the acid though - it can burn your hands, and ruin your car paint</li></ul><strong>If you get stuck with a dead battery...</strong><br/>To jump start, connect red to red/black to black OR + to + and - to -.  BE CAREFUL!  Connecting it wrong can give you a painful and unwanted shock!<br/><br/>Be careful if you decide to change your own battery -- some cars will lose the computer programming -- check with a good tech first.  If you're uncertain about any part of your starting or charging system, the best insurance is to get it tested by a good technician."
tips[16]="<h4>Get Ready for Vacations and Week-end Trips</h4>What do you do if you start hearing or have been hearing a weird noise?<br/><br/>The easy answer is to get an inspection by <strong>ASE Certified Tech</strong>.  They can find the cause and also find other damage it may have caused.<br/><br/>To protect yourself, though, you should take the time to listen to turn off the CD player, roll down the window -  and listen to your car:<ul><li>Worn or lose fan belt (high pitched, loud squeal -- especially when cold)</li><li>Thumping separated tires (thud, thud)</li><li>Wheel bearing (grinding or growling)</li><li>Overheated engine (hissing and steam)</li><li>Brakes (squeal or grinding)</li><li>Engine (knocking or tapping)</li><li>Front end/suspension (creaking or knocking)</li></ul><strong>How to save TIME and MONEY on these kinds of problems...</strong><br/>Keep a note pad in the car and make notes on problems as they come up:<ul><li>Time of day</li><li>Description</li><li>Weather</li><li>Driving conditions</li><li>Noise type</li></ul>Take your notes to your tech - AS SOON AS YOU NOTICE IT.  Go for a test-drive with them and identify the specific problem.	If you help them pin-point the problem, it will save you diagnostic time and money!"
tips[17]="<h4>What Do You Do When Your Car Overheats?</h4>How do you know if your car is overheating?<ul><li>Needle is toward or in HOT zone on gauge</li><li>Red Temperature Light is on</li><li>Steam coming out of engine</li></ul>What should you do?<ul><li>STOP NOW!</li><li>DON'T OPEN RADIATOR CAP</li><li>Get professional help...have a tow truck bring you to the most reputable tech in area</li></ul>What should I do if my engine has overheated?<ul><li>Have a complete Cooling System Evaluation done by an ASE Certified Technician</li><li>Have all components of the cooling system -- including head gaskets -- checked for damage</li><li>ALWAYS REPLACE the thermostat</li><li>Make sure coolant is 50-50 mix</li></ul>What if needle on Temp. Gauge is just a little over the normal range?<ul><li>Turn off A/C</li><li>Turn on heater</li><li>Get out of stop-and-go traffic</li><li>If in traffic jam, turn engine off</li></ul>"
tips[18]="<h4>Recalls: What Are They?  What Do They Mean?</h4><strong>How do recalls happen?</strong><br/>They start with customer complaints to  NHTSA -- the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration.  The more complaints there are, the faster that they take action.<br/><br/>The NHTSA opens their investigation, and if they find reason to do so, they place pressure on car maker, which usually results in a voluntary recall.  If the reason is serious enough, the NHTSA can also mandate a recall.<br/><br/>If you have a problem with your car, you can visit the NHTSA website by <a href='http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/' target='_blank'>clicking here</a>.  There, you can check for recalls, check for 'Secret Recalls,' and make a formal complaint to the NHTSA."
tips[19]="<h4>How To Avoid Getting Ripped-off</h4>Did you know that there's a law out here to protect you as an auto repair consumer? If you don't know about it, it could cost you hundreds!<br/><br/>It's called the R-D-I- law, and it stands for: remove, disassemble and inspect.<br/><br/>When you are quoted a price for disassembly, in order to inspect, and determine what is wrong, the quote must include the cost of putting the vehicle back together, unrepaired.  This is not unlike exploratory surgery when they don't remove the tumor.<br/><br/>Once a technician is inside and finds a problem, that is your car's problem, and it is YOUR responsibility to pay to have it fixed.<br/><br/>Also, if a part breaks on disassembly, it is not the shop's fault that your car is rusty, or has brittle, aged parts.<br/><br/>BUT, once they find out what the internal problem is, if you decide NOT to fix the car, and ask them to put it back together, this should be done at NO ADDITIONAL CHARGE."
tips[20]="<h4>The Travel Safety Kit for the Car</h4>I (Chris Carney, owner of CARNEEDS) recently came up with a list for travel safety for my car.  So did my wife, Heather, and I think they're both pretty good in their own ways.  Put them together, and you've got a pretty complete list for just about any car trip you can take!<br/><br/><strong>Chris' List</strong><ul><li>First Aid Kit</li><li>Blanket</li><li>Some tools</li><li>A flare</li><li>Flashlight</li><li>Jumper cables</li><li>And a cell phone</li></ul><strong>Heather's List</strong><ul><li>Snacks</li><li>Wet wipes</li><li>Kleenex</li><li>Drinks</li><li>Art supplies</li><li>Game Boy</li><li>and a TV and movies</li></ul>No matter what you bring, I recommend using <a href='http://maps.google.com' target='_blank'>Google Maps</a> to plan your trip!"
tips[21]="<h4>Now That I've Decided To Buy Another Car, What Should I Do With My Old One?</h4><strong>Retail value vs. Trade-in</strong><br/>Know right away: you are going to take a beating.  You should only trade in if you <em>just don't want the headache</em>.<br/><br/><strong>Sell it yourself</strong><br/>Appearance is a big part of selling your car yourself.  Have it detailed (usually less than $100), and make sure your car has good (and good-looking!) tires on.<br/><br/><strong>Maintenance</strong><br/>Keep good records of oil changes, repairs, maintenance, etc.  Make sure there aren't any weird noises or vibrations.  If helps if your fluids are topped off and clean, and make sure your car drives STRAIT!<br/><br/>When you're preparing to sell it, know the value of your car using a NADA book and newspapers (The value is determined by miles, equipment and condition.).  If you run a classified ad, price the car a few hundred dollars more than you want, so that you can negotiate with potential buyers."
tips[22]="<h4>Shocks and Struts -- Comfort and Safety</h4><strong>What is a shock or strut?</strong><br/>It's a hydraulic stabilizer...it keeps the tire in contact with the road and dampens or stills the car body after going over a bump.  If your car is like a big, rubber ball bouncing down the road you're probably dealing with bad shocks.<br/><br/>Shocks and struts smooth the ride and keep your tires in contact with road. CONTROL = SAFETY.<br/><br/><strong>How often do shocks go bad?</strong><br/>Every 50-60,000 miles, when hydraulic oil leaks out or when the seals rupture.<br/><br/><strong>What are the effects from bad shocks or struts?</strong><br/>The tire looses its ability to maintain maximum contact with the road, causing:<ul><li>Up to 50% loss in braking capacity  (stop in 200 feet instead of 100 feet)</li><li>Loss of stability and control in turns</li><li>Excessive tire wear  (cupping or chopping)</li><li>Vibration and noises</li><li>Excessive wear and damage to other suspension and steering parts</li><li>Structural damage to the frame, strut towers or perches</li></ul><strong>How do you know if you really need shocks or struts?</strong><br/>First and foremost, get an evaluation by an ASE Certified Tech.  They're the best judge of what your car does and does not need.  Other ways of determining are if your car:<ul><li>Has excessive bounce</li><li>Has excessive roll or sway on turns</li><li>Bottoms out over larger bumps (with a thump)</li><li>Has over 60k miles driven</li></ul>You may also want to have your shocks or struts inspected if you tow a trailer, drive a 4x4 off-road (or on harsh roads), or if you notice that your car is leaking fluids...your struts or shocks may need repair because of a loss of hydraulic action or a seal failure."
tips[23]="<h4>What Should I Look For When Choosing A Repair Shop?</h4> An easy way to tell how much a repair shop cares about its customers is the time its employees spend getting various certifications.  Some of these certifications are more important to me than others.  The 'certs' and affiliations that I believe are most important are:<ul><li>AAA Approved Repair Shop</li><li>Automotive Service Association Gold medallion shops</li><li>Member of the Automotive Management Institute (AMi)</li><li>...and ALWAYS make sure that the shop has <strong>ASE Certified Master Technicians</strong></li></ul>A good shop will have these certifications on display when you enter the shop.<br/><br/>REALLY good shops will also do their best to TEACH you why your car needs certain repairs.  They'll take you into their bays and show you what needs fixing and teach you WHY.  I can't stress this enough: You should NEVER feel like you don't know what your money is going towards...you should be able to ask questions and get REAL answers!  If you're not getting this from your current shop, it's time to find a new shop with real customer SERVICE!"
tips[24]="<h4>Hydroplaning and Tire Care</h4><strong>What is Hydroplaning?</strong><br/>Hydroplaning is the loss of contact between your tires and the road because of water buildup.  When your car hydroplanes, it essentially turns into an unsteerable sled, which is especially dangerous if there are people or vehicles in front of you on the road.<br/><br/>Rain in Missouri means high danger for hydroplaning.  Older highways with ruts and non-porous surfaces have a higher occurance of Water puddles...and thus an increased danger of hydroplaning.<br/><br/><strong>How do I avoid Hydroplaning?</strong><ul><li>Worn tires are at a higher risk of hydroplaning, and need to be replaced before they are down to the wear bar.</li><li>Narrow or Aqua-tread type tires are better</li><li>Low tire pressure makes the problem worse</li><li>Slowing down helps!</li><li>Drive defensively -- watch for puddling and danger areas</li></ul>"
tips[25]="<h4>Does my car just need a Tune-Up?</h4>If your car has drivability problems (stalling, bad mileage, roughness, etc.), a diagnosis is ALWAYS in order.<br/><br/>Did you know that today's cars can have as many as 3 computers each controlling separate systems?  If it's not already obvious, this is NOT a job for discount tire and brake shops!  Specialized equipment and training is required, and you would be wise to seek out a shop with ASE Master Technicians!"
tips[26]="<h4>Used Car Buyers Checklist</h4><ol><li>Don't Fall in love with the car before you've done your homework.</li><li>Let someone else take the depreciation hit. (2-3 yrs old is best)</li><li>Walk around the car and check paint, body panel gaps for evenness, chips, dents, etc.</li><li>Check maintenance history  (any records).</li><li>Contact the previous owner (get the name from the title).</li><li>Check the fluid condition (oil and transmission fluid should be clean and clear).</li><li>Test drive the car and listen and feel for noises, vibration, and handling problems.</li><li>Go to <a href='http://www.nada.com' target='_blank'>www.nada.com</a> and check the retail price.</li><li>Check the title history using the vin# at <a href='http://www.carfax.com' target='_blank'>www.carfax.com</a>.</li><li>If the above checks good, have a complete mechanical inspection done by an independent shop on the vehicle.  Use the items that need attention on the car, to bargain with the dealer.</li></ol>"
tips[27]="<h4>Do you really get what you pay for in auto repair?</h4>Here's my question to you: should price be the only consideration?<br/><br/>Would you pay a good doctor for diagnosis and then find a cheap, back alley butcher to do your surgery?<br/><br/>There is a huge difference in quality of labor and quality of parts in auto repair. Like I said, there are other, more important things to consider than price, like<ul><li>Safety</li><li>Reliability and piece of mind</li><li>Knowing that it was fixed right the first time</li><li>Time and convenience</li><li>and saving money in the long run</li></ul>I've seen parts with holes and cracks in the castings right out of the box from every Asian country.  Let me tell you from experience: cheap parts and cheap auto repair aren't worth your money.<br/><br/>Like most things in life, you get what you pay for...quality isn't expensive, it's priceless!"
tips[28]="<h4>The dreaded engine warning light!  What does it mean?</h4>Many people don't understand the importance of reacting quickly to cars messages.  Cars give messages to us by way of warning lights and gauges.  How quickly you react to a warning light can often determine the cost of repair!<br/><br/>As a result of not reacting quickly to this warning light, a $150 valve cover gasket repair can turn into a $2500 head job.<br/><br/>Think of your 'Check Engine' light as a stoplight.  No light at all is like a green light...no problems, keep driving.  A yellow/steady 'Check Engine' light is like a yellow light...take caution, as something needs attention.  A red/blinking 'Check Engine' light is like a red light...stop driving as soon as possible and consult your owner's manual!<br/><br/>For some vehicles, these lights can be related to maintenance and systems controls, but they are most often very serious signals from the vehicle, and are related to lubrication and temperature control systems.  If these lights are, in fact, related to temperature or oil warnings, the car should be towed to a shop.  High temperature and a lack of lubrication are the most common deathblows to engines and transmissions.<br/><br/>The diagnostic approach to solving engine warning lights is much like the approach of a doctor to diagnose an illness.  The doctor will do an overall exam to establish the area of a problem.  From the information gathered in this initial exam, he may recommend further diagnostic procedures to pinpoint the root cause and the proper solution.  Technicians have specific and sophisticated diagnostic routines to solve problems related to these various system lights.<br/><br/>The days of the uneducated mechanic are gone.  Today's technicians are highly trained and educated people who can solve problems on our high tech, multiple computer cars and trucks.  A good technician has the correct solution to solve the warning light signals of today's vehicles."
tips[29]="<h4>Should an oil change be just changing oil?</h4>As I've mentioned before on this website, car repair is a lot like medicine.<br/><br/>When you're sick and have to visit the doctor's office, you can choose to have an orderly check your illness, or you can have a qualified doctor review the problems with your health.<br/><br/>An oil change at a discount oil and lube joint is like going to a doctor's office that doesn't have a doctor on duty.  At reputable shops, ASE certified technicians are on staff in case potential problems are spotted by the lube department.<br/><br/>It's just like a physical exam or health check-up.<br/><br/>You should also understand the difference between ASE Certification and what most discount oil change places say they have.  They may claim to have certified people working there, but more often than not, they're in-house certified!  ASE Certified technicians are the cream of the crop in auto repair...they're the ones who have spent the time studying and testing to become the absolute best.  It's not easy, and it's not for everyone!<br/><br/>An oil change should never <em>just</em> be an oil change unless a shop isn't interested in taking care of you!"
tips[30]="<h4>Getting Ready For Winter Driving On Slick Roads</h4>In Missouri, drivers always have to be ready for slick driving conditions, even when it seems impossible!<br/><br/>To be ready for snowy weather, here are some obvious things that you can do:<ul><li>Tires: Good all-season tires will work, but for deep wintery conditions, studded snow tires on all 4 wheels are the best option</li><li>Slow down in icy conditions</li><li><strong>BE AWARE</strong>...4X4's and SUV's do not stop faster than regular cars</li></ul>The other big problem in Missouri wintery-condition driving is lack of experience.  New teen drivers are on the road each year, as are people that have never driven in the snow before.  For experienced drivers on the road, drive defensively!  But for people who need to learns how to drive in these conditions, I recommend lots of practice...use a deserted parking lot to practice recovering from sliding and skidding, and to practice braking."
tips[31]="<h4>'Getting Ready For Cold Weather' Car Tips</h4>A lot of people ask me, 'Do I need to winterize my cooling system this year?' and 'How long should my antifreeze or coolant last?'<br/><br/>Most people think that the only thing they need to worry about when it comes to their coolant is AVOIDING FREEZE-UPS.<br/><br/>There are 3 things we have to worry about with coolant:<ol><li>Protection against freezing and boiling</li><li>Rust and Mineral Deposits</li><li>P/H balance</li></ol><strong>Protection</strong><br/>A 50-50 mix in Missouri gives protection to -34 degrees<br/><br/><strong>Rust</strong><br/>Rust will grow in the system over time.  It's a living entity that eats things.<br/><br/><strong>P/H Balance</strong><br/>Acid eats:<ul><li>Radiators</li><li>Heater cores</li><li>Hoses</li><li>Engine head gaskets</li></ul>Alkaline causes:<ul><li>Mineral deposits</li><li>Clogged up radiators, thermostats, and heater cores</li></ul><em>What about these $19 or $29 Cooling System Services?</em><br/><br/>A Radiator drain and fill doesn't really fix the big problems.  The radiator will still have rust / P/H Balance problems.<br/><br/>Every 2 Years, do a complete Cooling System Flush, including a Chemical Flush / Back-flush.  This will remove rust and mineral deposits, and set the P/H balance correctly.<br/><br/>This is some of the best insurance you can buy for your car this winter!"


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